Day 2 Emerald Isle: The dose makes the poison

On our first full day in Ireland, we wanted to take it slow and stay within an hour from our home in Adrigole. The main itinerary for the day was a trip to Garnish Island, based on a friend's suggestion. Garnish Island is a beautiful island garden located off Glengarriff in Bantry Bay, in Southwest Ireland's Beara peninsula. The small island boasted of its famous garden, which homes subtropical plants, shrubs and trees. The island is warmed by the Gulf Stream and has its own micro-climate allowing for these rare plants to grow. It could easily be the Secret Garden in how it's situated; access is by a ferry boat.  Along the way, we passed small islets bedecked in pink flowers, a seal island with a colony of seals resting, and a huge White Tailed Sea Eagle and its nearby nest. Too bad I couldn't take a good picture of the impressive eagle.

The ferry captain let the girls steer!

It's amazing to think that when the original family arrived here, the island was barren.  Because the family members are award winning horticulturists, they transformed the island to the garden it is today. As you arrive on the island, you won't see the garden...yet.  The tall trees shelter the garden, and it comes as a pleasing surprise as you walk deeper in the island. The focal point of the garden is a reflecting pool with lots of flowering lilies afloat.  Apparently, they also made the best Irish Soda Bread at the cafe, but we didn't get to try it.

In addition to the display of unique plants rarely seen in Ireland, there are plenty of structures to explore such as a Grecian Temple, a clock tower where George Bernard Shaw used to stay, and an Italian Casita (tea room). It took over 100 men and 4 years to create the lush garden and the different structures.  The owner, John Bryce, wanted to build a mansion too, but was unable to see that vision through. What was originally there and still intact today was the Martello tower, a small defensive fort dating from 1805. We climbed it and were treated to the panoramic views of the bay. 

George Bernard Shaw stayed
and wrote in the clock tower

Rapunzel, Rapunzel, lay down your hair!

But we donated our hair!

Any idea what plant this is?

The seal island is home to a colony of seals ready to pose for pictures. 

The Folklore of the Foxglove Flower

While hiking in the island, we saw these beautiful cascading pink flowers - Foxglove. I was drawn to the Foxglove, digitalis, with its trumpet shape and white rings underneath. I didn't know what it was called so I searched for it online as soon as we got back to the house. Apparently, Digitalis is a major source of digoxin - glycosides used for congestive heart failure. BUT, it is also toxic even in small doses. Thankfully, I had better sense than to touch it. And thankfully, my kids did too! They are among the prettiest of the poisonous plants. It is said that the white spots inside the bells are marks left by fairies or 'folks' in 'folks gloves'. Another lore tells of how the fairies gave the flowers to foxes to wear over their paws so their prey won't hear them coming. While its a folklore, it's certainly fascinating, and the name should give you enough pause and clue you in on its toxicity. Its other names: fairy bells, fairy petticoats, fairy thimbles, dead man's bells, witches' gloves. And later on, I saw that this plant is quite ubiquitous in Ireland!

No dandelions tell the time,
  Although they turn to clocks;
Cat's-cradle does not hold the cat,'

 Nor foxglove fit the fox.

- Christina Rossetti

The Ewe Experience

After enjoying Garnish island, we decided to explore an art forest/garden in Glengarriff.  The Ewe Experience is only open in the summer and treats the visitors to a mixture of history, art and science hiking trail, featuring sculptures mainly focusing on environmental issues, with many art made of recycled materials. It's a feast for the eyes, poetry on display in a nature setting. Everywhere we looked, there's something lurking, or hanging, puzzling and educating us. I don't think this fantasy-filled walk is for everybody, but it's a wonderful treat for those who really care about sustainability and responsible living.

I swear I feel Golum nearby.

I am Groot! 

You had one job, Stork!

That would have made a fantastic end to the day, wouldn't it?  BUT, since we're such big overachievers, we decided to shoot for one more and hunt the Mares Tail waterfall. Sadly,  I overdid the "Keep Left" advice, drove a bit far (2 inches?!) on the left and didn't see the ancient rock that slashed my tire. So, yup, we had to say the requiem for the left tire, but thankfully, we were unscathe.  Eric, skillful for a first-timer, replaced the rental Audi's tire with a donut.  The process wasn't pretty, but we got "sorted out". (They use that expression a lot around here.) Thankfully, the girls were very cooperative and entertained themselves with a worm they found and busied themselves with making it a nice home. With the spare tire in place, and 4 deflated human beings on board, I drove us back to the cottage. We ended the day with a leisurely walk down to the beach. 

Day 1 Emerald Isle: G-d bless'd the green island and saw it was good

Every year, we look forward to taking our family getaway in the summer. This year is a little different - a little early and a little farther. We decided to take the girls on our first international family trip. Our destination: Ireland. Not that there's anything wrong with the Disney castle (I love Disney world!), but I wanted the girls to see real castles while they're still little -- real life castles steeped in history; high castles built of thick stone walls to protect those who lived within; castles that had been plundered and now in ruins, which would stir their minds to asking questions aplenty; hauntingly beautiful sites that would show them how people used to live.  With over 30,000 castles, ruined, regal or memorial of sort, and its green countryside, the emerald isle was the clear destination for us.

Our day started not too well with our Jet Blue MSP-BOS flight botched up by Aer Lingus.  Thankfully, the Jet Blue staff were awesome and they got us on the United flights with only 2 hours delay in our schedule. Hooray Jet Blue!  And while I've blacklisted United from my travels, I made an exception this time, and they weren't too bad...(this time). The girls were very good on the plane. Maya slept through dinner and breakfast even, then reminded me when she woke up that the crew were supposed to bring food! Thankfully, I saved her food, so she was happy and fed. We breezed through customs, and took a cab to the train station. After a ~3h train ride from Dublin to Cork, we rented a car in Cork to make our way to the Wild Atlantic Way.

Cliff by the house

Wild Driving in Ireland

Everything you've heard about driving in Ireland is true...and more. For this trip, I was the designated driver. I was excited and had my adrenaline pumping in spite of the lack of sleep. I was rented a brand new Audi just to add more pressure, or excitement, and as soon as I pulled off the rental parking lot, I knew getting the full-coverage insurance was a good idea. Whew.  I knew they drive on the other side of the road in Ireland, but...

"Opposite side driving + 100 Kph + Very narrow lanes + Cliff side + Historic stone walls + Tractors and tour buses + occasional sheep on the road = TERRIFYING!" 

Rose Cottage, Adrigole

Not to mention traffic circles also go the opposite way, and I could only guess what the road signs said. Yeah - it would have been smart to read up on those before we actually made the drive!  But hey, the soaring cliffs and epic bays on the way to the south west part of Ireland really did make for a sensational journey especially with the sheep and cows dotting the landscape. The kids enjoyed the view, and were laughing so hard at their parents trying maneuver the wild Ireland roads with me muttering to myself "KEEP LEFT" every 10 minutes or so. You can always count on them to ease the pressure. The kids were in great spirits as we stopped by Bantry to buy some groceries.  By the time we arrived in Adrigole, where we rented a house, we were exhausted but happy.  

If only we bought Guiness. 

When Erin first rose from the dark swelling flood,
God bless'd the green island and saw it was good;
The em'rald of Europe, it sparkled and shone,
In the ring of the world the most precious stone.
In her sun, in her soil, in her station thrice blest,
With her back towards Britain, her face to the West,
Erin stands proudly insular, on her steep shore,And strikes her high harp 'mid the ocean's deep roar.

By William Drennan