Day 3: Nice diary - The tourist and the tart

Eventhough I didn't get to sleep until half past 1 last night, I still woke up at 6.  There was no use going back to sleep, so I went out for a jog heading eastward along the promenade towards castle hill. It was so peaceful. When I headed back, I went down the beach and touched the water. It was my way of exchanging pleasantries with the Mediterranean sea, as I did with the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico when I moved to Florida from the Pacific.

One thing that makes this sea different is its sound. Because of the pebbles, whenever the tide crashes on the shore, it makes a distinct sound of rolling stones (not the Mick Jagger tunes).

I headed back to the hotel to get ready and went to the conference.  Around noon, I went to lunch at Au Moulin Enchante with one of the conference speakers. I ordered the sea bream, which is one of the most popular fishes on French menu here I am told. The fish was good, but the sides and the wine fell flat. After last night's wonderful meal, I held this place at a higher standard given the 4.5 rating online. My take: 3.5. 

Here in Nice, the establishments are open until late. So, although the conference did not end until the afternoon, I still had enough time to roam. I decided to embrace  being 'the tourist', and hopped on the petit train. Sure, it was a little embarassing, but no one knows me here anyway. Joie de vivre! The train costs 8 euros, and takes you around the East side of Nice, passing Old Nice, Place Garibaldi and Castle Hill, all while you listen to a recording in a language of your choice regarding the history of la bella Nizza.



Le Petit Train de Nice

Monument of Garibaldi faces Italy. Born in Nice, Garibaldi was responsible for the unification of Italy.

In the flat city of Nice, one area stood high - Castle Hill. It used to be a fortified site, but now there's no longer a castle which was destroyed in 1706. Instead, one will find a cemetery for Catholics, Protestants, and Jews with ornate tombs. On top, there is also a playground and a picnic ground. The top of the hill offers views of the bay of angels on the right and the Nice port on the left as you face the sea. If you turn around, you see the bustling Old Nice below, and the alps at the background.

A cannon is fired exactly at noon everyday on the hill.  As the story goes, this originated when a high ranking official requested to fire the cannon everyday at noon to remind his wife, who likes to take walks during the day, that it is time for lunch. A bit extreme, eh? Firing the cannon has been carried over ever since and has now become a tradition in Nice. How would you like to be called to dinner with a cannon?

Although I couldn't go to Marc Chagall museum since it's a bit far and closes early, I decided to go to the small Molinard perfume museum near Cours Saleya. Had I known ahead of time, and what the schedule was, I would have signed up for the perfume making workshop. For 40 euros, you can make your own blend of perfume, the museum will keep it in file so if you run out, they can remake the blend and ship you a bottle. The museum was still interesting.  Although small, you learn a lot about perfume making and where the floral scents originated from. Obviously, most scents come from Europe, then Africa and Asia.  Two scents originated from the Philippines - Ylang-Ylang and Patchouli.



Since lunch was not exactly satifying, I walked around Zone Pietonne (pedestrian zone) and found a boulangerie patisserie that had a sitting area, from which I can enjoy listening to the street musicians.  I was intrigued with a pastry that seemed to have greens in it in the middle called Tourte de blettes. The server had a hard time translating it, but finally came up with "spinach, but sweet". He also said that it's a specialty in Nice, and that you will not find it in other region of France, including Paris. So I decided to try it, and found that it's not spinach, but rather swiss chard. This swiss chard tart is interesting. Aside from swiss chard, it had pine nuts and apples, and the pastry is topped with confectioner sugar.  It's definitely different, I may even try to make it one time.

Enjoying Tourte de blettes with my trusted companion

I walked around for a few hours more to buy some presents, marzipan and chocolate. The macaron in Nice are not as good as those in Paris, but I couldn't resist getting a small box for my dear hubby. After that, it was time to go to my dinner meeting with my colleague, which was really more social than formal. We went to a restaurant that was tauted to be "as local as it can get". L'Ovale  offered a great prix fixe menu. And since I haven't had a real Salad Nicoise, I decided to try it there.  I was not disappointed.  They also had a great duck cassoulet, which I couldn't even eat half of because it was such a huge portion.  Another reason I couldn't eat as much is because I began to have a headache from the cigarette smoke from the person behind me.  We moved to a different table, and the person next to us lit a cigarette too. I guess I've been spoiled here in the United States, and no longer used to being surrounded in a cloud of smoke. In the end, I couldn't even touch my dessert. I wanted to have it to go, but in Nice, and perhaps in Europe in general, they're not really big on taking home food.  You enjoy it in the restaurant, you don't bring it home. Anyway, they did not have a box for us to bring our cakes in, so I tasted a teaspoonful, and left the rest. If only Eric was there to share it with. 



Cassoulet de canard

Tomorrow, we go home.

Day 2: Nice diary - You're turning lavender, Lavender!

Today, I had a mission. In spite of the full conference schedule, I vowed to explore Vieux Nice (Old Nice). But first, off to work. 

The science talks today did not disappoint. Top notch research on drug discovery kept me not only awake, but inspired. Perhaps moreso, I enjoyed hobnobbing with the researchers. This group has a very laid-back attitude that it's turned this conference into such a pleasant work travel for me.  Topics of conversation easily shifted from the lack of research funds to neglected diseases to multiple rejections (yikes!) to awkward questions such as: "Are you Japanese or Chinese?" and "How do I get a job out of research?"  



Chickpea crepe?  I can hear my sister laughing right now.

I generally dislike chewing food while engaged in a stimulating discussion, so I passed on the lunch. We just had pastries for the morning break anyway. As expected, I got hungry by mid-afternoon, so I took the tram to Cours Saleya, considered the heart of Old Nice, and went anywhere my feet led me. Henri Matisse lived in Cours Saleya and painted many of his arts here.  The name derived from "soleil" or sun, as the flower market is pretty exposed. A lot of tourists flock Cours Saleya for its vibrant shops selling food, antiques, local arts,  and souvenirs. I had lunch at a crepe place, ordering the savory vegetarian socca, the chickpea crepe specialty here in Nice. Uh, to be honest, it was just ok. It doesn't hold a candle to the crepe carts in Paris.

In Cours Saleya, Lavender is pretty ubiquitous. Apart from the flower stalls, it also adorns restaurant tables and shops. As I continued to explore, I happened upon Fenocchio, the famous gelato place, which has 86 different flavors. Although I wasn't exactly in the mood, I had to try a boule since even my French friend had suggested this place. The flavors included unexpected ones such as cactus, verbena, olive, rose, jasmine, and... lavender. Guess which one I had? FYI, the boule is about 1/2 or 1/3 of American scoop, which is just about what I could handle. Verdict: the lavender gelato smelled good, and it is delicious too. I had to fight the urge to dab my wrists with it.

'Twas a tough choice between the lavender and violet.

I started heading back to the conference, but stopped at the herb shop to pick up a particular herb. Guess what you'll be trying in the coming days, sweetie?

After the conference, I went back to Old Nice for dinner. I am so happy that I made a reservation at Oliviera. This family-owned and run restaurant is the perfect place to end the day. When I told Nidim, the owner, how much I've heard of his restaurant.  He said "Don't believe it.  We are a simple place." And yet, I knew he was lying. Mind you, you should not be in a rush if you want to eat here. Nidim takes pride in his oils, and the oil tasting is such an experience. He is also very gracious. The place was fully booked, and he was apologetic to the people who walked in without reservation. I looked at the menu, which was in French, and picked the first one that appealed to me. Nidim said "No... ask me, ask me." So, I confessed that I forgot my French dictionary, and I couldn't understand half of the items on the menu. He described everything in detail and with great patience. While I am slowly giving up meat again, I decided that I will have the beef canneloni; the beef was simmered for 8 hours. They really are a patient bunch! I also had my first red wine after a long time, and I'm glad I waited to try it here. The Corbière is earthy and not tannic. The best part of this dinner, however, is the array of olive oils I tasted - one tasted like unripe banana, while one is a late harvest black olive Nidim drizzled on Tiramisu. In the end, I bought an oil that tasted like a combination of almond and artichoke, the Olive Oil Nicois. Mind you, this is not an infusion. It's just the type of olive that they make here - apparently harvested just 10 km away. I cannot wait to use it. I'm sure it will go perfectly with the lavender-scented salad I'll be making next week.



Big metal jars of Olive oil harvest



The second oil smelled like rainforest.

The canneloni I'll remember.

Nidim and Mr. Toutou parted as friends.

Day 1: Nice diary - Cote d' Azur

It is 10:30 pm in Nice, and I am nursing a slight headache.  I think it was the 3rd glass of Le Vin that did me in.

July marks the beginning of the conference season, which brings me to the French Riviera for the gathering of European's brightest in the medicinal chemistry field.  Leaving my 2 kids (and hubby) was extremely hard for me given how young Maya still is, so I didn't particularly look forward to meeting THE Queen of the Riviera, Nice (pronounced 'niece').

My dear husband was supposed to come with me for a short quality time together while my in-laws look after the kids, but our little tyrants sweet young children made it clear that it was not going to happen this year. In hindsight, I am glad hubby has stayed home with the kiddos.  With Maya still so small, I am at ease that at least one of us is home with her. But here I am, and it is quite nice indeed to meet you, Nice.

Before I left, Tamar asked me to bring Mr. Toutou on the airplane. Eric insisted that I leave him so that I don't lose M.T. However, when I told Tamar that I will bring her octopus instead, she cried and pleaded that I bring Mr. Toutou. So, how could I not? Amelie, meet your precious gnome's competition.


Monsieur Toutou

I arrived in Nice after an uneventful flight, and went straight to my hotel at the Promenade des Anglais.  I could have taken a cab. After all, I wasn't paying for the trip. But I decided that taking the bus is more practical and fun. As the bus 'coasted' along the promenade, the blue coast, Côte d'Azur, greeted me with its brilliant hued water and wonderful breeze.  I threw the pity party out the bus window right there and then.   

And I first saw the Sea!
The Sea!
The bright colored Sea!
Mile after mile in the fresh afternoon breeze.

My hotel is along the Promenade des Anglais. Across the street is the mediterranean sea. I checked in and rushed out the door to take the tram to the Acropolis, where the conference is being held. I drank and schmoozed with the European scientists about the fantastic science (Sorry, can't talk about it here) coming out of the region, then it was time for some relaxation.





Place de Massena, where you can pick up the tram



Chilin' like a villain





I walked along the promenade by the beach, then after a while, I just sat down and stared into La Baie des Anges or the Bay of Angels as they call it.  I've always been magnetized by the ocean. Eventhough I've never been here before, it feels so familiar.  Could it be because it's in my blood?

But that Sea! That Sea!
That light Sapphire Sea!



I have to confess, the pebble beach didn't really have that much allure to me.  How comfortable can it be to lie down in that with just a towel beneath you? I can't imagine it is. You can rent a chair, but for me, I prefer the powdery sand. Either the white or the black volcanic sand is better than pebbles.



After a while, I walked to the west side to Hotel Negresco, Nice's finest hotel, which is also now a historic monument, and boasts of 16,309-crystal chandelier. I didn't count to confirm. This chandelier was built for the Russian czar's Moscow palace, but because of the Bolshevik Revolution, it was never delivered.



Soon I realized that it was 9 pm already and I have not had anything to eat since breakfast.  I looked for the restaurant La cave de l'origine which came highly recommended by my guidebook, but when I got there, it looked pretty stuffy and not too friendly.  I decided to skip it and look for some place more enticing. As luck would have it, I stumbled upon a warm little bistro, Le bistrot de l'atelier.  Their vegetables were so fresh and delicious, and Le vin rosé was divine, and the staff really friendly (and forgiving of my French).  I later found out that this is a new place.  You wouldn't know it from how efficiently they worked.

To top the day off, I went and had this chocolate hazelnut gelato. It was like eating cold ferrero rocher. Bonne nuit!